To my delight, there’s been a wonderful selection of plants for indoor gardening lately at the local garden centers, greenhouses, big box stores and even supermarkets. During this blessed period, I’ve managed to bring home some great choices such as a handful of adorable Tillandsias, the spectacular Chlorophytum Orchidastrum that cost me only $2.00, a typically hard to find Adenium Obesum, a ‘baby’ Monstera Deliciosa that was also a couple of bucks and a few nice-looking Bromeliads. It’s been quite a gratifying houseplant-acquiring period indeed and – since the rotation of plants has been quite impressive - I find myself visiting stores that sell plants more often than usual. You never know what they’ll bring in while you’re not looking. So I keep going back. Especially during this ‘hot’ houseplant period.

While visiting a garden center a few days ago, I got to thinking about how lucky we (society) are these days with such a vast selection of greenery to choose from, including plants that were once not available for indoor use at all. And how even luckier we are that more and more new hybrids are constantly being introduced to the market that are far more durable and less demanding than their long-standing cousins. And even better than that is the fact that we can look forward to even more specimens in the future.

And then I thought: What if things were different? What if there wasn’t as much variety? Or as much choice? Even worse than that, what if the variety and choices were there but not available as freely to you? What if you were permitted to own greenery from only one family of plants? (Perish the thought) And although I can’t picture such a world, imagine for just one moment that it actually existed. So my question to all of you is: If you could only have one - just one - family of plants in your home, what would you choose? (You could have as many cultivars as you'd like but only from this one family)

And after careful (painful) consideration (because such an existence is inconceivable), I decided that if I was forced to choose only one family of plants to adorn my home, I would definitely settle for the Bromeliaceae (Bromeliad) clan. These plants are by far one of my favourite groups. I could not imagine never owning any plants from this group again.

My first bromeliad was one of the most commonly-grown – the Aechmea Fasciata (Urn Plant, Silver Vase Bromeliad). My second one was the spectacular Vriesea Splendens with the common name of Flaming Sword, which appropriately describes its sword-like flower shooting up from the central vase. Over the years many others joined my houseplant group but certainly not as many as I’d love to have - since there aren’t many varieties on hand at the local shops, not to mention the fact that they can be quite pricey as well when they are available for purchase.

And it’s really a shame that there aren’t more of these fabulous specimens available locally at affordable prices because Bromeliads make excellent indoor plants for the home and office. Their ability to adapt easily to interior growing conditions combined with their wide variation in shape and size, their beautifully-coloured foliage and colourful, long-lasting blooms makes them a unique and spectacular group of plants that very few others in the plant kingdom can surpass or compete with.

So I would never give up these plants, even if it meant sacrificing my beloved Aroids and Marantas (Marantaceae), which wouldn’t be easy to do. And since we’re here together again, let’s learn a little more about this group and what they need to thrive.


What Are Bromeliads?

Extremely diversified, this exotic family of plants comes in enough different shapes, sizes and colours to satisfy every houseplant enthusiast’s palette. Grown primarily for their interesting foliage, unique style and striking flowers, this attractive and colourful group has leaves that may be green, gray, maroon, striped, variegated, spotted, marbled, leathery, wiry, broad, grass-like, miniature (Tillandsias) and even several feet long. In fact, there is such a drastic difference in appearance between so many Bromeliad members that you can decorate an entire home solely with these plants and it’ll appear as though you are surrounded by a multitude of different plant families.

Bromeliads, a family of about 3,000 species, are primarily native to tropical regions of the New World (there is one species endemic to West Africa) and can be found in certain areas of South America, Central America, the Caribbean and southern United States. These warm-loving specimens are a wonderful choice for indoor greenery. They adapt effortlessly to a variety of growing conditions, handle neglect better than most other plants and are quite easy to grow, which makes them particularly attractive to beginners.

In their native habitat, the majority of these plants are epiphytes, attaching themselves to trunks and branches of trees (without parasitizing their hosts). They derive their moisture from the rainfall and nutrients from the air. One of the greatest advantages of an epiphytic lifestyle, especially for the short Bromeliad members surrounded by very tall trees, is having access to better-quality light by perching themselves up high on their hosts. Without this ability, they would be compelled to live on the forest floor where the light is very limited.

Many members of this family boast another advantage: their thick, broad leaves form a funnel-shaped rosette called a tank that is used for collecting nourishment. The rain that is caught and stored in this ‘cup’ ensures that the plants have ample moisture during periods of drought caused by high winds and hot sun. Bromeliads are, if nothing else, amazingly resourceful.

Not all Bromeliads are epiphytic. There are terrestrial family members that are found hanging out with cacti in arid, sunny areas, living among the leaf litter and debris of the forest floor and even basking in the sun along sandy beaches. And there is even another group – Saxicolous – that can be found clinging to rocks with roots that can penetrate cracks and fissures to locate moisture or nutrients.

However, when grown in homes, most of them – epiphytic or not – can tolerate a terrestrial environment if the conditions are appropriate.

Let’s learn how to make that work.


Caring For The Bromeliad Family

The majority of Bromeliads available for indoor use at the local garden centers are sold in containers - even though many of these plants grow on rocks or on tree trunks and branches in their native areas. Growing these exotic specimens as potted plants is a lot more convenient indoors - and easily achievable, as long as the medium is very porous.

Bromeliads do not have extensive root systems compared to other indoor plants you may own. And the roots that they do have function primarily as an anchor system, especially for the epiphytes that absorb nutrients and moisture from the air through their leaves and ‘tanks’. As a result, proper drainage is not only recommended, it’s absolutely essential. Pot up your plants in a very porous medium that allows for sufficient air circulation and prevents water logging. Pick up a prepackaged mix for Bromeliads or prepare your own. Mediums used for Orchids or Succulents are also fine choices.

Even though any type of pot – clay, plastic, ceramic - is satisfactory to grow your Bromeliad in, some specimens can get quite large and top-heavy, therefore weightier pots may prove more practical. Keep your plants in containers that are just large enough to accommodate the small root system and do not repot until the roots completely fill up the pot.

* The epiphytic Tillandsias (air plants) grow very poorly in conventional potting mixtures. It’s best to mount these plants on driftwood, rocks, seashells, coral, cork, grapewood – almost anywhere your imagination dictates – and water them by occasional soaking and regular misting. I will write about these amazing plants in a separate article in the future.

Bromeliads tolerate a wide range of light levels but do their best in brightly lit spots away from direct sunlight. Although they may survive for quite some time in low light areas, they will grow better and produce flowers in strong light. Place your plants in brightly lit spots (away from the direct rays of the sun) in southern, eastern or western exposures, look for signs of contentment – or discontentment – and reposition accordingly.

* Earth Star (Cryptanthus) and Pineapple (Ananas) can be grown in full sun.

When it comes to watering your Bromeliads, there are two sacred words that you must commit to memory: NEVER OVERWATER. Improper watering practices are usually the cause of most problems associated with these plants. Water the compost only when it dries out considerably and then water thoroughly until it runs out of the bottom. Never allow the pot to sit on a saucer full of water; dump the excess right away. This plant family is prone to root rot – easily - if the planting medium is kept too wet too often, so be careful with that watering can. Bromeliads can tolerate and survive periods of drought, therefore it’s preferable to underwater these plants than to drown them with excess moisture. Keep tanks filled with water at all times, flush them periodically (every 1 – 2 months) to remove salt buildup and prevent stagnation, and refill them with fresh water.

* Tank style Bromeliads can also be watered exclusively through their funnel of leaves. If you keep the central rosette (cup) filled with fresh water at all times, you don’t need to concern yourself with the container’s compost.

Average room temperatures between 15°C (60°F) to 24°C (75°F) are satisfactory but plants may require temperatures of 24°C (75°F) and above to bloom. Humidity levels of 40 to 60 percent are greatly appreciated but difficult to maintain in the average home, especially during periods when air conditioners or heating systems are running. Provide healthy levels of humidity by adding a humidifier near your plants or by placing them on pebble trays.

For more information: Improving Humidity

The more research you do about these plants, the more diversity of information you will come across. This is especially true about when and how much to fertilize – if at all. I believe it all depends on your plant’s growing conditions and development. Actively growing Bromeliads can be fed about once a month with a general liquid fertilizer that is diluted to half strength or less. Do not fertilize during the winter months or if plants are placed in low light areas. For Bromeliads that you water exclusively through their tanks, fill a spray bottle with a very weak fertilizer solution and mist the leaves lightly.


A Time To Live, A Time To Die

Bromeliads literally grow to flower - and then die. After they’ve bloomed, your plants – over a period of a year or two – will fade away, slowly but steadily. They will never flower again, there is nothing you can do to stop this process and it wasn’t caused by something you did or didn’t do. That’s just the way it is.

That’s the bad news.

The good news is that - way before your lovely Bromeliads head off to meet their maker - they produce offsets (pups) that can be separated and potted up to form new plants. And the mother plants stick around long enough for those babies to grow to a substantial size, able to survive on their own. In addition, ‘mom’ may keep producing pups until the bitter end, which is terrific since it means more plants for you!

Do not move the pups into separate containers until they are about 1/3 – 1/2 the size of the mother plant. By then, those babies will be identical, miniature versions of momma with their own rosette of leaves. When it’s time to remove the young plants to pot them up, cut them off with a sharp (preferably serrated) knife, small saw or pruning shears. Transplant the young Bromeliads into their own containers in a fast-draining medium, place them in a brightly lit location, keep them warm and water carefully.

* When you separate the young pups, don’t be alarmed if they haven’t developed a root system yet. They will.

* You may also just cut the mother plant away as she declines, leaf by leaf, until only the pups are left.


Encouraging Bromeliads To Bloom

Don’t bet on flowers for awhile. Your newly-transplanted Bromeliads have to reach a mature blooming size first, which may take 1 to 3 years depending on the species and the conditions they’re growing in. Aside from the age of the plants, other factors that can affect blooming include light intensity, temperature levels and water quality as well as quantity.

If your plants are just the right size and thriving in their ideal environments, there are a couple of things you can do to encourage blooming.

1. Just let nature take its course. Continue to provide the ideal care and allow your plants to bloom when they’re ready.
   
   
2. Drain the plants of their water and place them in clear, airtight plastic bags with a ripe apple away from direct sun. (The ripe apple releases ethylene gas that induces blooming) After 7 to 10 days, get rid of the plastic bags (and apples) and replace the water you drained. Depending on what type of Bromeliads you have, flowering should begin in 6 to 14 weeks.

And despite their exotic looks, Bromeliads have very simple requirements and are extremely easy to care for. What more can you ask for? And how could you possibly give them up?

A FEW PHOTOS OF BROMELIADS
* mouseover a small image to see a larger format or click to open it in a new window *

For more information:

King Of My Plant Jungle
Rescuing A Blushing Bromeliad
Good Things Come In Small Packages

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