Recently, I received an email from a visitor to my website that pointed out: “It is standard to capitalize the genus name and never the species. Also when using the name in a text it should always be in italics.” The writer further stated: “I just can’t help but point these facts out when I see this common mistake.”
The first part is absolutely true; that’s how the botanical names of plants should be written. Something I am aware of but have never applied to my website. The second part that states “common mistake” does not apply to me, at all, because it’s not a mistake. I’ve intentionally ignored this rule. Yes, I’m a bit of a nonconformist, albeit a quiet one. But how much of a rebel can you be if you’re simply resisting plant name conventions? Pretty dull one, I’d guess.


Please state for the record why you are breaking the rules.
There are many reasons, but the main one is that I just haven’t made the effort. Because I just haven’t cared to. I prefer to retain a consistent flow on the text of my web pages like capitalizing plant names (genus and species) almost everywhere, especially in titles. I know it’s not the standard way, but I like the way it looks.

Do you think you should be exempt from these rules?
Yeah, I do. My website is my hobby site, maintained entirely by me. There are no membership fees. I’m not associated professionally in any way with the botanical world. I am not an online store. I’m just a houseplant lover sharing information about plants and their care. I don’t believe I should have to do this.

And how do your website visitors feel about this?
This is the first time any visitor to my website has brought this to my attention, which surprises me. I’ve often wondered when someone would finally write in and explain the standards to me, convinced that I’m doing this unknowingly.

Are you doing it unknowingly?
No, I’m not; I’m shamelessly guilty.

Was the sender of the email upset?
Not at all. She explained the standards quite pleasantly without a hint of anger or arrogance. She was really cool about, sincerely trying to help.

So are you going to conform after that nice email?
Meh.

Have you no shame?
None.

Aren’t you the least bit concerned about being a bad influence?
No. This is a personal website and people should not take everything at face value.

What if someone emulates you?
What if? I shouldn’t be held accountable for other people’s botanical misdemeanors.

Do you plan to ever follow the rules?
Perhaps. I won’t (for now) dig through my old Hydro Logs and established web pages and ‘fix’ them. But I’ll consider preparing my 2009 Hydro Logs properly.

Really?
Maybe.

[Later that day... “...The court finds the defendant guilty of premeditated plant name disrespectfulness and sentences her to 25 years of intensive houseplant care’...” Sweet]


Okay, enough silliness for one day; let’s move on to some plant stuff.

I’ve been flipping through my plant books this past week, looking at photos of cool specimens and appreciating, once again, the beautiful foliage that so many of them have to offer. And of course, I have to share care information about some of my favourites that are not only cool-looking but fairly common (most of them), making them easy to find. This is also a great way to put together a Hydro Log as quickly as possible, especially now that my schedule is insanely busy.

Off we go to some cool plants with cool foliage...


Neoregelia carolinae `Tricolor' - Blushing Bromeliad

Neoregelia carolinae ‘Tricolor’ is one of the most ornamental and one of the hardiest tank-style Bromeliads. It is able to endure extended periods of neglect that include insufficient light, watering blunders and low humidity. You can water exclusively through the funnel of leaves; keep the central rosette (cup) filled with fresh water. Flush the tank periodically (every 1 – 2 months) to remove salt buildup and prevent stagnation, and refill it with fresh water. If you choose instead to water through the medium, allow it to dry out considerably and then water thoroughly until it runs out of the bottom.

Provide as much light as possible. Some early morning or late afternoon sunshine is very beneficial; protect against midday sun. Keep humidity above average by placing the plant on a pebble tray or by adding a humidifier nearby. If your plant is actively growing, feed it about once a month with an all-purpose liquid fertilizer that is diluted to half strength or less. Do not fertilize during the winter months or if the plant is grown in low light. If you are watering exclusively through the tank, fill a spray bottle with a very weak fertilizer solution and mist the leaves lightly. Average household room temperatures between 15°C (60°F) to 24°C (75°F) are fine.

Learn more: Rescuing A Blushing Bromeliad


Dracaena fragrans ‘Massangeana’ – Corn Plant

Resembling a corn plant with leaves marked with a yellow stripe down the center, this striking plant is one of the most popular Dracaenas, widely-grown inside homes, offices and public spaces. This tolerant and versatile specimen is capable of growing as high as ten feet indoors when properly cared for.

Although able to survive in dimly lit areas, a corn plant prefers bright light. Choose a location that offers medium to bright light or some early morning or late afternoon sun. Always protect against the hot rays of the summer’s midday sun. It is absolutely essential that you use a fast-draining, porous soil for this plant that is highly-prone to root rot. Water thoroughly only when the medium is fairly dry; be especially careful during the colder months. Switch to hydroculture to eliminate water woes.

All Dracaenas, this one included, can tolerate dry air better than most indoor plants but the preference is higher levels of humidity. Air that is too dry will lead to brown leaf tips and susceptibility to infestations, especially from spider mites. Place this Dracaena in a warm location; it is very sensitive to cold drafts and chilly temperatures.

Learn more: Dracaena Fragrans Massangeana – Corn Plant


Ctenanthe lubbersiana

The attractively-patterned foliage on this irresistible member of the Maranta family makes it very difficult to leave it behind at the garden center. But proceed with caution because it can be as difficult to grow as it is eye-catching. If one does follow you home, it’s important to understand how to cater to its needs – if you want to keep it alive and well.

Provide plenty of humidity; the leaf tips and margins will brown and turn crispy in dry air. Place the plant where it will receive partial shade; keep it away form direct sunlight. Average room temperatures between 16°C (60°F) and 27°C (80°F) are ideal, and cold drafts must be avoided. Grow your Ctenanthe in an airy, fast draining potting mix, water moderately, keep the medium moist at all times and never let it dry out completely. When the winter season arrives and plant growth slows down, allow the compost to dry out a little more. This is a great candidate for hydroculture, switching to the system without any difficulties.

This lovely plant needs high humidity, a warm location, protection from the direct rays of the sun and protection against cold drafts. If you can provide all these things, especially high humidity, you will be able to succeed with one of these temperamental beauties.

While these highly-tolerant plants do well in a variety of settings, they don’t handle the cold well and need to be grown in rooms that are comfortably warm and draft free. Keep the soil evenly moist during the warm months and drier during the cooler ones. Aglaonemas are prone to root rot when consistently over watered; consider switching to hydroculture. With proper care, this lovely plant will grow happily in your home for a long time and even reward you with many offshoots.

Learn more: Aglaonema Silver Queen - The Perfect Plant


Aphelandra squarrosa - Zebra Plant

This lovely plant, grown for its interesting (and unusual) flower display for about six weeks and for its decorative foliage thereafter, requires a little added effort to keep it happy and healthy. One of its most important care requirements is ample humidity. Average levels will be tolerated for awhile but high humidity is preferred – and crucial.

Use a highly-porous, fast-draining soil and keep it evenly moist but never soggy. Reduce watering around midwinter when your plant takes a much-needed rest; keep the soil barely moist but never allow it to dry out completely. To convert to hydroculture, wash roots free of soil, pot in clay pellets, provide ample humidity, protect from direct sunlight and keep warm. Water roots will form within a few weeks (4 – 6). Transplant after the flowering period ends.

Choose a location that offers bright, indirect light; a well-lit area is needed to encourage flower formation. Never expose to the summer’s hot, midday sun, which can burn the plant’s leaves. Direct sunlight is not recommended but a little early morning or late afternoon sun in an east or west facing location is handled very well.

Ideal temperatures are between 18°C (65°F) and 21°C (70°F) while the plant is actively growing; exposure to cold will cause the plant to drop its leaves. During the rest period, a cooler, shadier spot where the temperature is as low as (but never below) 13ºC (55°F) is preferred, but it’s not compulsory. Feed once a month at full strength, or every two weeks at half strength in spring and summer. Do not fertilize while the plant is resting.

Learn more: Aphelandra squarrosa - Zebra Plant


Caladium bicolor - Elephant Ears, Angel Wings

These tuberous plants are prized for their beautiful foliage. The large, stunning, arrow-shaped leaves that grow on long, slender leaf stems that arise from the underground tuber are paper thin, beautifully marked and brightly coloured. Green foliage is covered by speckles and blotches of red, pink, white or silver shades in varying combinations.

During the active growing season, Caladiums enjoy a moderately well-lit spot to maintain the variegation of their leaves. Choose a draft-free location that offers bright, indirect light. Ideal temperatures are above 21°C (70°F); never expose it to levels below 16°C (60°F) during this period. Use a fast-draining medium, keep it evenly moist and never allow it to dry out completely. If growing in Hydroculture, pot the tubers in clay pellets and keep the water level below them. Provide above average humidity and feed with half strength food for foliage plants every 2 – 4 weeks.

In late summer, move your plant into a shadier area and gradually reduce watering; stop altogether when all the leaves have faded. Remove the dead foliage and stems, leave the tubers in the dry medium and store the pot in a shady, dry area, preferably where temperatures are slightly cooler, between 13°C (55°F) and 16°C (60°F). Caladiums need to rest for about five months, so forget about the tubers until early spring. In mid to late March, move the pot back into brighter light where it’s warmer, begin watering and resume normal care. New sprouts will begin to appear fairly quickly.

Learn more: Dazzling Caladiums


Chlorophytum orchidiastrum 'Fire Flash'

Bearing a beautiful rosette of broad and shiny, dark green leaves that contrast with the bright orange petioles and midveins, ‘Fire Flash’ gives its well-known relative Chlorophytum comosum a run for its money; it’s undeniable that this new kid on the block is much more colourful and certainly more ornamental.

Fire Flash will tolerate low light for quite some time but will eventually begin to deteriorate, so choose a location that offers bright, indirect light; avoid hot, midday sun. Use a fast-draining, airy medium that retains some moisture without staying soggy. Keep it evenly moist during the active growing season from spring to early fall; reduce watering in the winter but do not allow the soil to dry out completely. This is a terrific candidate for hydroculture; wash the roots free of soil and pot the plant in the clay medium. Conversion is rapid and fairly painless; succulent water roots will develop within 3 – 4 weeks, possibly a little longer.

Although dry air seems to be handled fairly well, I would recommend levels between 40 – 50 percent, if possible. Temperatures between 18°C (65°F) to 29°C (85°F) are fine. ‘Fire Flash’ will endure cooler levels, but exposure to very low temperatures should be limited. If the plant gets too cold, unsightly black patches will develop on the leaves and their tips. Feed once a month with a liquid fertilizer that is diluted to half strength. A weaker solution is wiser because over-feeding will also lead to black leaf tips and margins.

Learn more: Fire Flash - New Leafy Kid On The Block


Sansevieria trifasciata - Snake Plant

With stiff, sword-shaped, marbled leaves that resemble snakeskin, Sansevieria trifasciata is so resilient and adaptable, it’s as close to indestructible as any plant can get. There are many Sansevierias to choose from – in tall and short form – but the S. trifasciata is one of the most familiar and commonly-grown in homes and commercial settings.

Although its ability to survive in low light areas, scorching heat, dry air, extended periods between watering and months of neglect has earned it a reputation of robustness, it performs much better with proper care in a brighter location. This tolerant plant will thrive in a sunny and warm location all year round.

It is almost impossible to kill this plant; over-watering is the only thing that will ultimately defeat it. Use a fast-draining, highly-porous soil and water only when the medium dries out. Be extra vigilant with the watering can during the colder months when susceptibility to rot is high. Switch to hydroculture to eliminate all water woes; all Sansevierias are champion performers in this growing style, adopting the system effortlessly.

Learn More: Sansevieria trifasciata – Easy Come, Easy Grow



As you surely noticed, I behaved today; botanically, that is. Italics and all. I haven't checked to make sure I haven't missed anything, but at least I made a small effort. Just don’t get too comfortable with it; I may slip back into my old ways. Without remorse.

(By the way, thanks for the friendly tip about the plant names, Vera. I appreciate it. I’ll try to behave, but if I don’t, I hope you can ignore (and live with) my botanical misdemeanors and continue to visit my website.)

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